BEACH
NEWS YOU CAN USE
Covering 160 miles of Oregon coast
travel: Seaside, Cannon Beach, Manzanita, Nehalem, Wheeler, Rockaway,
Garibaldi, Tillamook, Oceanside, Pacific City, Lincoln City, Depoe
Bay, Newport, Wadport, Yachats & Florence.
25
Miles of Mystery and Wilderness on Oregon's Coast
(Oregon
Coast) - Three capes, a couple of tiny towns, a collection of hidden
spots, one lighthouse and some one-of-a-kind natural oddities: these
are the wonders in abundance along this 25-mile stretch of Oregon
coast. It’s here where 101 veers away from the beaches, and
the coast road is instead this winding, twisting journey through
thick, lush forests interrupted by the occasional explosion of stunning
ocean vistas, all the while just a little ways away from a bundle
of beaches that are guaranteed jaw-droppers.
Oregon
tourism is taken to another level here, just west of towns like
Tillamook, and some you’ve possibly never heard of, like Hebo.
At its northern end, it all starts about nine miles from Tillamook,
at Cape Meares. A lighthouse, a weird natural anomaly and a few
hidden trails all create a whole new world to explore in this relatively
small State Park – all a trifle north of MP 4.
Take the paved
walkway to the Cape Meares Lighthouse, a stumpy specimen that is
the smallest lighthouse on the Oregon Coast, standing only 38 feet
high. But size isn't important here as it stands on a 200 ft high
cliff, more than making up for its own lack of height.
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| Looking
at Oceanside from Cape Meares |
Inside, this
1890 beauty sports a gift shop and a wrought-iron spiral staircase
which leads you to the lens - a kaleidoscopic carnival of colors
when the sun hits it just right. It’s open during touristy
times of the year.
Another short
trail brings you to the Octopus Tree, a freaky, huge organism which
has grown eight very large limbs (until one was whacked off during
a storm in the early `90s). The tree was featured in Ripley's Believe
It Or Not for years.
From Cape Meares,
it’s a few short miles down Meares Loop Rd. to a wild little
clandestine beach called Short Beach. Look for Radar Rd., just a
tiny bit north of MP 4.
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| Short
Beach |
Short Beach
(which once boasted an actual radar station) is chock full of scenic
yumminess, starting with the large, bulbous rock structure plopped
at the tide line, sporting a small patch of trees on top. On one
end of the cove, the weird rock structures near Oceanside poke out
from behind the cliff. At the other end sits the Cape Meares lighthouse
and another small sea stack. A massive waterfall spills gently into
the ocean - just out of reach of the beach, and there's also a rocky
cove within this cove.
Access to the
beach is through a sprawling, wonderful creation called the “stairway
of 1000 steps,” put together by locals to keep people from
busting their heads, as they did via the old access, which was a
precarious slippery slope of mud.
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| Tunnel
through Oceanside |
Then, you come
upon Oceanside, where the wonders never seem to cease. It’s
an old, rustic hamlet that smacks of another time, dripping with
weather-beaten cuteness and charm – and it hides two major
culinary wonder in the form of the upscale Roseanna’s Café
and the Anchor Inn and Grill.
The beaches
here are often shielded from the wind by the headland called Maxwell
Point, which allows you access to its hidden secrets on the other
side via a mysterious little tunnel. On the other side sits a stunning
beach where enormous boulders and weirdly shaped sea stacks give
the entire area a feel like something out of the old ``Star Trek''
series.
The entire area
is cluttered with stuff to play on as well as a sense of the serene
and the surreal.
Above
Oceanside is another stunning discovery that’s not very well
known. At the very top of town sits a gravel patch the locals don’t
want you to know about. From here, you can actually look down on
the famous Three Arch Rocks. It is the single most expensive chunk
of real estate in all of Tillamook County.
Along the way,
some charitable local soul has built a small bench on the edge of
the roadway with the words ``Enjoy'' inscribed on it. Enjoyable
indeed, but that word doesn't quite cover what you'll get out of
this: the bench is brilliantly placed so you can obtain a stunning
view of the Pacific Ocean as well as Short Beach to the southeast.
Heading south
again you’ll pass the tiny, but burgeoning, community of Happy
Camp, with a large mass of breathtakingly beautiful condos and home
springing up. There’s also Netarts, another picturesque bit
of fun tucked away from the usual coastal routes.
It’s
another few miles down the road and you’ll encounter Cape
Lookout State Park. The beach at this popular park is mostly one
immense, sandy stretch, going on for nearly five miles to the north
into Netarts Spit. Parts of the beach dip steeply into the tide
line, causing the waves to crash loudly and abruptly, then quickly
running out of steam and altogether creating an intense, natural
spectacle.
The
campground here boasts 191 campsites (two accommodating the disabled),
one electrical site, four group camping areas, a reservable picnic
area, a meeting hall, four yurts, 54 full RV hookup campsites (maximum
30 feet), full restroom and shower facilities as well as a waste
disposal station.
Just south of
the entrance to the park is Anderson's Viewpoint, now newly paved
with a bigger parking lot. If this doesn't fit your definition of
a Kodak moment, nothing will.
You’ll
soon come to Cape Lookout, with three major trails. The Cape Trail
makes a five-mile loop around the entire cape, winding up at the
tip of this majestic outcropping where, if the weather permits,
you can catch sight of Cascade Head and Cape Foulweather - some
40 miles to the south.
About a half
mile down the Cape Trail - at one of the first railed lookout spots
- there's the Crash Sight Memorial, where a World War II B-17 bomber
slammed into the headland in 1942.
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| View
of Sand Lake from Cape Lookout |
The South Trail
veers off to the left of the Cape Trail, taking you down to a hidden
cove and a secluded, very sandy beach - eventually connecting to
the Sand Beach campground area about four miles to the south. The
North Trail leads you down to Cape Lookout State Park and the picnic
areas, about two miles of walking.
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| Tierra
Del Mar |
Sand Beach Campground
and its multitude of dunes lies just south of here, where ATV enthusiasts
abound because of the sprawling dunes - so expansive they are known
as the ``Other Dunes on the Oregon Coast.''
Next, the road
connects to Sand Lake Road going either south or east, and after
a few winding twists and turns you’ll come to the teeny weeny
community of Tierra Del Mar. Here, the beach abruptly pops into
view: a long, nearly endless expanse of sand with golden, sandstone
cliffs above it in a few places.
Cape
Kiwanda State Park is a mile or two south of here, a sparkling little
gem that's ago pretty much a secret. It’s accessible via a
one-lane street tucked off to the side the road - about a mile north
of Cape Kiwanda's parking in Pacific City. This frequently solitary
spot features a large sandstone and basalt structure which protrudes
out from the cliff face right up to the ocean, providing all kinds
of opportunities for climbing or for hiding from the wind. There's
even a tiny cave. At lower tides, its tip is exposed and large,
freaky basalt columns emerge, letting you explore them.
At
the southern tip of the Three Capes Loop is the cute but now not-so-rustic
hamlet of Pacific City, which is undergoing so many changes and
additions it looks nothing like it did even ten years, perhaps even
five years ago.
It’s home
to the sweeping, golden and wind and sea ravaged cliffs of Cape
Kiwanda, known as the most photographed chunk of the Oregon Coast
- and you need only see them from a distance to understand why.
This gargantuan sandstone structure jutting out into the sea comes
complete with a whopping sand dune towering above it and the other
Haystack Rock on the coast (not to be confused with the Haystack
in Cannon Beach).
The
entire area is one remarkable package of natural fun and frolic,
rambling on for several hundred feet in different directions and
hiding numerous wonders all over. There are numerous hidden nooks
and crannies to explore, with various sections looking a lot like
an alien world.
Just south of
Pacific City, 101 becomes the main coastal highway again, leading
you past weird and wonderful spots like Cascade Head and Neskowin,
eventually dumping you into the tourist mecca of Lincoln City.
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