| Covering
180 miles of Oregon coast travel: Astoria, Seaside, Cannon Beach, Manzanita,
Nehalem, Wheeler, Rockaway, Garibaldi, Tillamook, Oceanside, Pacific City,
Lincoln City, Depoe Bay, Newport, Waldport, Yachats & Florence.
07/08/08
The Beginning of the Oregon Coast's Wacky
X-Files
(Oregon
Coast) – Let's be clear on one thing: I don't believe in ghosts.
And as for UFO's, I'm like that poster in Mulder's office in the "X-Files"
TV series, which reads, "I Want To Believe."
The weird stuff always fascinates me, and between that
and my obsession with anything coastal, I've managed to combine the two
in some odd ways. Some people collect hubcaps for a hobby. I collect Oregon
coast paranormal tales.
 |
| Not only were strange things seen in Neskowin in 1987, but the place
is known for oddities like the "ghost forest," seen here |
I'll never forget what sent me down that road. It was 1987
and I was seeing a girl named Christine. It was a Friday the 13th - March
to be exact - and a full moon, although it was overcast. And if you do
your math, that means that exactly a month before, in February, it was
also a Friday the 13th and a full moon: eerie all its own. So that March
night, Christine and I headed out to join friends in Neskowin at their
beach house. We arrive after midnight, and serendipitously, there was
a fire burning on the beach - as if made for us (we were celebrating the
fact we'd been together exactly a month, since that previous Friday the
13th).
We're drinking champagne on the beach, enjoying the fire,
when I begin to notice something odd over her shoulder, on the pitch-black
horizon. There was some vague, undulating, red glow, apparently on the
water; and it appeared as if it was far, far out there. It was too dark
to tell for sure. Christine and I talked, and for some 10 minutes or so
I watched it behind her: changing shape, fading in and out and never getting
very bright.
 |
| Neskowin has many esoteric qualities and features, including a legend
of being a "spiritual spot" |
Finally, I mentioned it to her, and she saw it too. So,
apparently I wasn't going crazy. We watched and gawked at it, completely
puzzled. Was it a reflection from the moon above the clouds? No. It wouldn't
be red. Was it a reflection from a boat? Possibly. But over the years
I looked closely at every boat at sea I spotted at night and never saw
a similar effect at all. It actually, more than anything, looked like
it came from beneath the water.
Since then, I was increasingly fascinated by weird coastal
tales or strange scientific facts. This experience haunted me, and I began
to collect such tales like some people collect hubcaps.
Years later, I would discover some really strange things about Neskowin
- stuff both scientific and paranormal.
 |
| A rare shot of bioluminescent phtyoplankton: the blue dots are the
little critters. (photo Tiffany Boothe, Seaside Aquarium) |
In the early 90's, I heard about something called "glowing
sand" in a secret cove at Road's End in Lincoln City. Some years
after that, in 1993, I'm wandering the beaches of Newport at night with
some friends, and spotted odd, bluish/green sparks beneath our feet. At
first I thought it was all the booze I'd guzzled earlier, but my friends
saw it too.
Years later, while researching such coastal oddities, I
discover it's bioluminescent phytoplankton that glows. It's slightly rare
in these parts, but it does happen.
 |
| Glowing phytoplankton can be especially spectacular in places like
Nehalem Bay, where moving your hand through the glowing stuff makes
it look like a skeleton hand |
Rewind again to the spring of '93: I find myself staring
slackjawed at what looks like snow going the wrong direction, drifting
upwards to the highway from the Devil's Churn, near Yachats.
I pull over immediately, flipping my wig, and take a few
pictures of a tide so foamy that it resembles snow flurries flying at
you and then going upwards. (And then who can forget that crazy, super
warm December 26 later that year on the coast, with temps in the high
60's? Now that was practically paranormal all its own.)
In the late 90's, I discover the glowing phytoplankton
and that freaky, snowy tide have a lot in common. In fact, they're pretty
much the same thing. Sea foam, it turns out, is made of the dead skeletons
of phytoplankton. That's right, there are so many of them they form all
that foam you see.
 |
| Cape Perpetua on that strange, foamy day in 1993 |
In the meantime, other weird things or wonders crossed
my path. There’s the green flash at sunset - which I’ve eventually
seen numerous times over the years. This I wound up researching quite
a bit. Then there's that freaky "singing sands" phenomenon,
where sand in the National Dunes Recreation Area and near Cannon Beach
can make a singing or violin-like noise.
And then there are all those ghost stories I've collected
over the years. That process continues.
Oh, and some possible explanation for that weird,
red blob in 1987 did finally pop up. I talked to a bioluminescence expert
in Florida on the possibility it might've been what's known as "red
tide": a form of phytoplankton that glows red. She said that was
extremely unlikely, since that species couldn't survive in our cold waters.
As she gave up on guessing what it was, her final words on the subject
filled me with the same chill and wonder the X-Files TV series did in
its heyday: "But there are a lot of things out there we don't know
about."

Tradewinds
Motel,
Rockaway Beach. All rooms are immaculate and have TV’s, VCR’s
and in-room phones w/ data ports. Oceanfronts have queen bed, a
double hide-a-bed, kitchen, cozy firelog fireplace and private deck.
Both types sleep up to four people. Others are appointed for a two-person
romantic getaway, yet still perfect for those on a budget. Elaborate
oceanfront Jacuzzi suite has two bedrooms, kitchen, double hide-a-bed,
fireplace and private deck, sleeping as many as six. For family
reunions or large gatherings such as weddings, some rooms can connect
to create two-room and three-room suites. Some rooms pet friendly.
523 N. Pacific St., Rockaway Beach. (503) 355-2112 - 1-800-824-0938.
www.tradewinds-motel.com |
Inn
at Cannon Beach. Beautifully wooded natural setting at quiet south
end of Cannon Beach. Great during winter storms with a new book by
the fireplace – or when the sun is out for family fun and beach
strolling. Handsome beach cottage-style architecture. Lush flowering
gardens and naturalized courtyard pond. Warm, inviting guest rooms.
Continental buffet breakfast. Warm Cookies. Family and Pet Friendly.
Welcome gifts. Smoke-free. Complimentary Wireless Connectivity. Wine
and book signing events. 800-321-6304 or 503-436-9085. Hemlock At
Surfcrest, Cannon Beach, Oregon. www.atcannonbeach.com. |

The
Ocean Lodge. There will not be another property built
like this in Cannon Beach in our lifetimes. Rare, premiere ocean
front location; handsome, dramatic architecture and tasteful, fun
(nostalgic) beach interiors. Overlooks Haystack Rock. 100 percent
smoke free. Imaginative special occasion packages. Massive wood
burning lobby fireplace. Library w/ fireplace, stocked with impressive
book collection. Pet and family friendly. Lavish continental buffet
breakfast. In-room fireplaces, mini-kitchens. Jacuzzi tubs in select
rooms. DVD players, complimentary movies. Morning paper. Warm cookies.
888-777-4047. 503-436-2241. 2864 Pacific Street. Cannon Beach, Oregon.
www.theoceanlodge.com |

Arch
Cape Property Services.
Dozens of homes in that dreamy,
rugged stretch between Cannon Beach and Manzanita known as Arch
Cape. Oceanfront and ocean view , or just a short walk from the
sea.
All homes are immaculate and smoke free; some pet friendly (with
a fee). Some with broadband, indoor or outdoor hot tubs, fireplaces,
decks, and fire pits or barbecues. Call about tempting winter specials
that go until March (not valid holidays, however). www.archcaperentals.com
866-436-1607. |
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in nature and stunning moments for 2007
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and so do beaches, revealing different sides and a variety of eye-popping
sights
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Cool Ideas for Oregon Coast Romance Be it the season
of Valentine's or be it any time of the year, Oregon's coastline has
essentially cornered the market for cuddle-inducing possibilities and
gushy activities for the hand-holding set
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or Night Mysteries and Merriment on Oregon Coast It's
more than just nightlife that comes to life, but the beaches offer major
opportunities
Oregon
Coast Travel Site Goes Wireless Provides Lodging Reports
- Oregon Coast Beach Connection now has mobile lodging and dining listings,
along with weekly lodging availability reports
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TAKE THE VIRTUAL TOUR |
ASTORIA
Where the Columbia meets the Pacific,
Land of Lewis & Clark and loads of atmosphere & history
|

SEASIDE
The Promenade, Tillamook Head, family
fun & broad, sandy beaches
|
CANNON
BEACH
A mysterious lighthouse, upscale
yet earthy, a huge monolith, fine eateries & an art mecca
|

NEHALEM
BAY
Manzanita's beaches, Nehalem and
Wheeler's quirky beauty; laid back Rockaway
|

TILLAMOOK BAY
Garibaldi, Barview, Bay City, Tillamook
& an oceanfront ghost town
|

THREE
CAPES LOOP
The hidden secret of the coast: Cape
Meares, a lighthouse, Oceanside, Netarts and Pacific City
|
|
DEPOE
BAY
A spouting horn downtown, freaky hidden
cliffs and whales, whales, whales |
NEWPORT
Time-tripping Nye Beach, a bustling
bayfront, marine science-central and two lighthouses |
|

YACHATS
Constantly dramatic wave action, a mix of the rugged &
upscale |
|

FLORENCE
A lighthouse, ancient bayfront and miles and miles of fluffy
dunes |
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