Secrets of the Season

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And Now for Something Really Different on Oregon's Beaches

Hobbit Trail

(Oregon Coast) - Strange and beautiful are the active words for some spots on Oregon's coast, where the idea of simple natural splendor just doesn't quite cover what’s happening here. Some beaches defy the normal conventions of fun and magnificence, with interesting or really unusual attractions lurking in the sand or rocks, or some surprising aspect awaiting you.

Freaky Beach Secret of Lane County

It’s called the Hobbit Trail – and it’s a secret. So don’t tell anybody.

It’s so named because the eerie tunnel-like earthen walls that surround you at certain points upon your descent. But it’s a place sometimes favored by creative-types from the Eugene area who often construct wildly imaginative structures from the natural objects lying around, like amazing gardens of rocks, things you might find in Japanese gardens, strange rune-like figures from stones or whimsical carvings in the sandstone.

Or maybe it is occupied by gnomes who scurry away from their constructions upon the approach of any human being?

There’s something mysterious and mystical about this spot. Not to mention, it’s an unofficial nude beach for some of the valley hippy kids.

You can find this hard-to-spot trailhead about two miles south of Carl G. Washburne State Park. There’s a breathtaking trail from here that meanders a little over a mile through forestland and the occasional stunning viewpoint, eventually twisting and switching back periodically to wind up in back of the Heceta Head Lighthouse. Look for signs to the “Valley Trail.”

Delirium in Depoe Bay

One attention-grabbing beach spot to keep an eye out for is a hidden place known as Depoe View Park, sitting behind the northern part of Depoe Bay.

Look for Vista St. along the northern part of Depoe Bay, and this will lead you into a neighborhood and a sign that reads "to the rocks." There, you'll find an amazing span of puffy, bubble-like basalt cliffs where the ocean below crashes with enough power to sometimes make this area shake.

Walk around a ways and you'll encounter various strange forms and craggy structures - including a natural oddity that looks like a mini Stonehenge, and an area that looks like a small, sunken basement with the basalt forming natural steps going down into it.

Killer Views of Cape Kiwanda

A ways further north, between Lincoln City and Tillamook, sit the tall, ragged and golden cliffs of Cape Kiwanda. On top, there are numerous secrets and incredible views. Hidden coves beckon, often completely unreachable. From certain angles, some structures resemble human fists, giant faces or maybe the surface of another world. Peek over the fences on the ledges to witness enormous, wind-carved cliffs getting battered by monstrous waves.

It all begins at the parking lot, where it’s about a quarter mile walk to the majestic cliffs of Kiwanda and its towering dune overheard. Here, folks love to slide or tumble down the steep incline on purpose. A new, emerging sport here is sand boarding – which originated in the vast, 40-mile stretch of dunes in the Florence area. It’s basically like snowboarding, but on sand. The store across the street rents these out.

The dune towers a few hundred feet, but the cliff is reachable after about only 40 feet of plodding up a sandy incline. Once on top, you’ll spot an enormous landscape of all sorts of oddities. In one area, a bowl-like cove has a long crack meandering for many feet. Periodically, it will surprise you and squirt ocean water up at you.

Wonders of Fort Stevens

Even further north, between Seaside and Astoria, lays Fort Stevens State Park and its numerous manmade - but abandoned - wonders. There's the wreck of the Peter Iredale, a schooner that smashed here in the early 1900’s and is now known as the world's most photographed shipwreck. Its rusted, skeletal remains make for great climbing (tide permitting), although most of the time only its front tip is visible, with a few other higher objects sticking out to the south of it. Sometimes the sand is lower and even more of it is visible.

Then, there are the numerous concrete battlements, once used to guard the mouth of the Columbia, which housed huge guns and now look a little bit like an American version of an old castle. Here, enormous gunneries once guarded the mouth of the Columbia River, lodged in huge turrets which rested in sprawling concrete fortresses – all empty and abandoned now, with gaping holes like sad, hollow eyes where guns, officers’ quarters and other war machinery once sat.

Around one bend, you'll find Battery Russell and its enormous concrete bunkers, with spartan rooms that are labeled with such military purposes as "latrines" and "officer's lounge." Built around the turn of the last century, the gunnery eventually watched for invaders during World War II.

1942, a Japanese submarine fired shells at the battery, although none were fired back. This - aside from the brief bombing of a forest near Bandon (on the Southern Oregon Coast) by a Japanese aircraft - is the only area in the continental U.S. which was fired upon by a foreign power since the War of 1812.

Tucked Away In Newport

Just north of the entrance to the Yaquina Head Outstanding Natural Area, you’ll find 58th Street tucked away behind some trees on the west side of the highway (it’s accessible by taking 56th St.). At the bottom of 58th, you’ll find a hidden beach trail wandering down from this residential neighborhood to a stunning cove area on Yaquina Head’s north face.

This beach is full of all sorts of wonders, especially the crazy slabs of basalt set at odd angles which protrude from the sand and make for a mesmerizing journey.

Inn at Cannon Beach. Beautifully wooded natural setting at quiet south end of Cannon Beach. Great during winter storms with a new book by the fireplace – or when the sun is out for family fun and beach strolling. Handsome beach cottage-style architecture. Lush flowering gardens and naturalized courtyard pond. Warm, inviting guest rooms. Continental buffet breakfast. Warm Cookies. Family and Pet Friendly. Welcome gifts. Smoke-free. Complimentary Wireless Connectivity. Wine and book signing events. 800-321-6304 or 503-436-9085. Hemlock At Surfcrest, Cannon Beach, Oregon. www.atcannonbeach.com.

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